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As skincare technology develops, the ins-and-outs of ingredients and products can be a little overwhelming. I'm back with another ingredient breakdown to help you understand Vitamin A. This is going to get a little science-y but I'm going to ease into it, so grab a drink, take your time and hopefully you get to the end and feel a little less intimidated by Vitamin A. ~ Courtney

The main question I have regarding Vitamin is "What does it do?".

Vitamin A helps stimulate the skins cell turnover. This pushes fresh skin cells to the surface helping to give a smoother, fresher complexion. These fresh skin cells that are being pushed to the top also helps to keep pores unclogged which helps to keep skin blemish free.

Vitamin A also has some other incredible benefits:

- It helps to increase collagen production. Collagen plumps the skin up helping to combat the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.
- It helps to decrease the formation of hyperpigmentation (dark spots), giving a more even toned complexion.
- It helps to reduce sebum production. An excess of sebum can cause blemishes. By reducing production you help can reduce the amount of blemishes, this makes it great for those who have blemish prone skin.

All of these benefits sound great. A smooth, even toned, blemish free, fresh looking complexion? Sign me up!

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So why are people always hesitant to add Vitamin A into their routines? Why are there warnings about how to introduce it?

In short, Vitamin A has some issues. For it to have visible anti-ageing effects it needs to be delivered at high levels. These high levels quite often cause irritation to the skin, especially when introduced to a skincare regime incorrectly. This irritation can come in the form of stinging, redness and peeling. This is not something any of us want.

Before I get into the different types of Vitamin A I'm quickly going to mention the best way to introduce Vitamin A (and also any other skincare item) into your regime. The key is slow and steady. Start with a lower percentage and slowly add it in. Check out this little image guide created by Medik8.

It is also important to use this Vitamin as part of your night time routine. Night time is when your skin does its repairing so this means your skin will be able to use ingredients to their full potential. It can increase your skins sensitivity so it's very important that you use an SPF if you are using Vitamin A.

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The Vitamin A Ladder.

Like most vitamins, Vitamin A comes in slightly different forms depending on their molecular structure and each form has a different strength. Knowing what form of Vitamin A is in a product can help determine whether it is a good entry level product or if it's something you need to slowly work up to.

(Lowest) Retinyl Ester -> Retinol -> Retinaldehyde -> Retinoic Acid (Strongest)

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Retinol.

Is a classic and commonly known form of Vitamin A and is the one most of us have heard of. When retinol is applied to the skin it has to undergo conversions so that it can be utilised by the skin.

Retinaldehyde.

Is a next generation molecule and the next level up the strength ladder. Unlike other forms of Vitamin A, Retinaldehyde boasts antibacterial action which means its helps fight blemish causing bacteria making this a great form of Vitamin A for people with blemish prone skin.

Medik8 has a range of Retinaldehyde that is delivered in a crystal encapsulation system. The active is time release throughout the night. This makes it as gentle on the skin as Retinol without compromising its strength and effectiveness.

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While Vitamin A products applied to the skin have not been shown to cause problems with breastfeeding women, pregnant women or unborn children it is recommended by experts to avoid it. High doses of Vitamin A during pregnancy and breastfeeding can be harmful.

This is where Bakuchiol comes in...

Bakuchiol.

Bakuchiol is a plant based, clinically proven, alternative to retinol. It helps to stimulate collagen and elastin production which helps to minimise the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. It also helps to minimise melanin synthesis and has the ability to block inflammatory pathways. This helps to give the skin a calm, even tone with less hyperpigmentation. Sounds very familiar to retinol doesn't it? It is also incredibly gentle on the skin, making it great for those who are too sensitive to use retinols.

Because Bakuchiol has retinol-like effects but does not have the mechanism of action as Vitamin A there is no reason to link the two. Please ensure you discuss any new skincare routines with your doctor if you are pregnant or breastfeeding.

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I hope your brain isn't feeling too overwhelmed after reading all of that. Below are some links to some great entry level Vitamin A products. Remember, not all products are created equal. I personally recommend the Medik8 range as their brand is centered around their CSA (Vitamin C, SPF, Vitamin A) theory.

Read more about the Medk8 CSA Philosophy

• Medik8 Crystal Retinal 1
• Medik8 Retinol Serum 3TR
• Medik8 Retinol Eye Treatment
• Medik8 Night Ritual Vitamin A
• The Ordinary Retinol 0.2% in Squalane
• Medik8 Bakuchiol Peptide

Until next time,

Courtney xx